First, it's easier to travel alone in Argentina or to travel with another English-speaking person. I know that may seem a little weird, but when you travel with someone who speaks Spanish it can actually make things harder in some respects. First, no one will actually address you directly. Second, they give you stuff in English. Just because I'm not fluent in Spanish does not mean I want my menu in English, thanks. I can read Spanish fine and if it's food I'm certainly fluent. Also, when you're alone and you try to speak Spanish people will slow down and the conversation is much easier. When you're with someone who is fluent, they go full speed. I can still follow generally speaking, but it makes it a lot more challenging. And, if people get going in Spanish at full speed (like in a group), then you are totally left in the dust. Oh, and if you're slow to respond because you have to formulate the response in Spanish, then the other person often speaks for you. I may not be able to speak it fast, but I would like to do the best I can and attempt a response, even if it's a little wrong and let the person correct me (or laugh at me). It's the only way to learn a language. My colleague means well and is trying to be helpful, but I'd really rather be able to try.
Second, staying in the middle of the herd is important when crossing the street during rush hour. There really is safety in numbers. If you're at the back of the herd when the light is thinking about changing (like you can see the yellow going in the other direction as the signal changes), the cars and buses (especially the buses and taxis) just start going and you have to really hustle or be squished. When you're in the middle of a herd, the bus/taxi is less likely to start going when the light is still red (though some will start moving anyway). In the front of the herd you run the risk of getting taken out by the bus or taxi that ran the light because they were going too fast to slow down and stop. Tonight two buses, a motorcyle, and two taxis ran the light at the street I was crossing. The front of the herd people had to jump back on the sidewalk. I, having learned to be a middle of the herd person, was still safely standing back.
Dinner tonight was the best yet. We went to a place called Juana M. It is in my favorite part of the city, closer to Recoleta and on Avenida de 9 Julio. If we hadn't been given directions we would never have found this place. It's literally in the basement of this beautiful old building. To see it, you would think it was an art gallery. And it is an art gallery of sorts. It has all these paintings by different artists all over the restaurant. When we got there (early by Argentinean standards - 8PM) the restaurant was practically empty. The owner greeted us - and shockingly addressed ME in Spanish. I anwered her (woot!) though my colleague did step a couple times. It was funny though, she addressed me the entire time. Not gonna lie, I liked that. She knew I was American and she spoke more slowly and asked a few times if I understood her. I did (YAY!) and it was awesome. She asked me where I was from, why I was in Buenos Aires, etc. She was genuinely interested. And she had the kindest face - she was like a restaurant mom if there is such a thing (well, if restaurant moms are incredibly hip, well dressed, cosmopolitan Argentineans). She also gave me a Spanish menu and didn't even ask if she should bring an English one!
Anyway, back to the food. I wanted to close my trip with my favorite dinner, Argentinean parilla. Parilla is the grilled meat and they had an entire page of different cuts of meat and various sausages. As much as I love bife de lomo (which is tenderloin), my heart is with bife de chorizo (sirloin). I just like it. So I got bife de chorizo. All meats came with the salad bar. And what a salad bar it was. It had some composed salads, various greens, and all manner of vegetables - roasted beets, roasted eggplant, caramelized onions, roasted mushrooms, carrots, pickled onions, red cabbage, boiled eggs, tomatoes (what is an Argentinean salad without tomatoes?!), two types of roasted potatoes, fresh mozzarella, and too many other ingredients to name. And the salad dressing section consisted of three vinegars and a bottle of olive oil. Perfecto.
And there was the chimichurri and the criollo (both pictured below with 1/3 of my enormous steak). Oh, so good. Best yet in Buenos Aires. I love a good chimichurri!!!
We had a fabulous Malbec to go with dinner. It was much stronger than the Malbec Monday night, but very good. It went perfectly with the bife de chorizo (Monday I had bife de lomo and a lighter Malbec was better). And for dessert we had what I am sure is a sin that I need to repent of - panqueque de dulce de leche. Think crepe filled with caramel (pictured below). Oh. My. God. My colleaguge and I split it (I mean we'd already eaten a field of veggies and half a steer) - and it was pefecto. It was the perfect meal to end my nights in Argentina. The restaurant was a hike from the hotel (I think about 1.5 miles), but so worth it.
Tonight as we walked back and I enjoyed watching the cars and buses speed down Avenida de 9 Julio, and enjoyed the stately old buildings that line that avenue. The air was cooler (though the humidity is a beast here at the moment), and the night was busy, but more subdued than the day. My colleague and I talked about all kinds of things and it was a great walk back.
I'm glad to be going home - I miss my kiddo! But I am so glad that I got to come back to Buenos Aires. It still remains my favorite city. I'm thankful I got to spend another week here. Tomorrow will be a full day of work followed by a little shopping before my remise picks me up and I head to the airport for my flight home.
So can we say all prayers were abundantly answered?
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